about the tabs

Guide: The Meaning of Levi's Tabs (Color Code & History)

The color of the tab on the right back pocket of Levi's jeans is not a coincidence, but rather identifies the respective era, production line, or material quality.

Red Tab (The Classic)

  • Introduced: 1936.
  • History: Originally introduced to differentiate from counterfeits.
  • Purpose: Until 1971, "LEVI'S" was woven in capital letters (Big E). Since 1971, the "e" has been lowercase (small e). A Big E Tab is a primary indicator of genuine vintage jeans from before 1971.

Orange Tab (The Fashionable Era)

  • Period: 1960s to late 1990s.
  • Concept: Levi's answer to the fashion changes of the 60s. While the Red Tab remained for classic workwear (e.g., 501), the Orange Tab denoted fashionable cuts like bell-bottoms, bootcut styles, and jackets.
  • Characteristics: Often simpler construction (e.g., no copper rivets, 7 instead of 5 belt loops) to compete on price with competitors.

Silver Tab (The Streetwear Era)

  • Period: Introduced in 1988 (until the late 90s).
  • Focus: This line catered to the emerging streetwear and skate culture.
  • Cuts: Known for extremely wide baggy pants, but also for the currently popular mom-fit (high waist, tapered leg).
  • Material: Often heavier denim, softened by industrial washes compared to classic rigid jeans.

White Tab (Special Fabrics & Corduroy)

  • Usage: Primarily used in the 1960s and 1970s.
  • Application: Denoted trousers made of corduroy, gabardine, or special women's collections ("Levis For Gals"). Also found on colored jeans in pastel shades.

Black Tab (Sta-Prest)

  • Usage: Primarily found on the Sta-Prest collection (introduced in 1964).
  • Special Feature: These trousers were chemically treated and hot-pressed to guarantee a permanent crease ("Non-Iron"). The lettering on the tab is usually gold or silver.

 


The Phenomenon of "Blank Tabs"

Occasionally, tabs are found that do not bear a name, but only the registered trademark symbol (®).

  • Background: Levi's must protect its right to the tab as a design element. Approximately every 100th pair of jeans has a blank tab sewn in.