about the tabs
Guide: The Meaning of Levi's Tabs (Color Code & History)
The color of the tab on the right back pocket of Levi's jeans is not a coincidence, but rather identifies the respective era, production line, or material quality.
Red Tab (The Classic)
- Introduced: 1936.
- History: Originally introduced to differentiate from counterfeits.
- Purpose: Until 1971, "LEVI'S" was woven in capital letters (Big E). Since 1971, the "e" has been lowercase (small e). A Big E Tab is a primary indicator of genuine vintage jeans from before 1971.
Orange Tab (The Fashionable Era)
- Period: 1960s to late 1990s.
- Concept: Levi's answer to the fashion changes of the 60s. While the Red Tab remained for classic workwear (e.g., 501), the Orange Tab denoted fashionable cuts like bell-bottoms, bootcut styles, and jackets.
- Characteristics: Often simpler construction (e.g., no copper rivets, 7 instead of 5 belt loops) to compete on price with competitors.
Silver Tab (The Streetwear Era)
- Period: Introduced in 1988 (until the late 90s).
- Focus: This line catered to the emerging streetwear and skate culture.
- Cuts: Known for extremely wide baggy pants, but also for the currently popular mom-fit (high waist, tapered leg).
- Material: Often heavier denim, softened by industrial washes compared to classic rigid jeans.
White Tab (Special Fabrics & Corduroy)
- Usage: Primarily used in the 1960s and 1970s.
- Application: Denoted trousers made of corduroy, gabardine, or special women's collections ("Levis For Gals"). Also found on colored jeans in pastel shades.
Black Tab (Sta-Prest)
- Usage: Primarily found on the Sta-Prest collection (introduced in 1964).
- Special Feature: These trousers were chemically treated and hot-pressed to guarantee a permanent crease ("Non-Iron"). The lettering on the tab is usually gold or silver.
The Phenomenon of "Blank Tabs"
Occasionally, tabs are found that do not bear a name, but only the registered trademark symbol (®).
- Background: Levi's must protect its right to the tab as a design element. Approximately every 100th pair of jeans has a blank tab sewn in.